![]() ![]() Note that the cut should be made up to, but not over the line. I then used the cut leg to mark the depth for the top rail and cut it on the table saw. With the joint marked on the leg, I cut the first half on the table saw with my I simply lined up the top rail on the leg and marked where the two met. Pocket screws would certainly be quicker here, but I thought this might be a little stronger and I can always use the practice. I decided to join the top rail and legs with a lap joint. With that out of the way, I ripped the cross support piece from the top rail on the table saw. This is mostly optional, although the top rail pieces need to be straight for a couple of rip cuts. Next I decided to clean up the legs and top rails a bit on the jointer and planer. I used my miter saw with a stop to speed things along. The first step was to cut the parts to length from the 2x4s. ![]() I also wanted to beef the frames up a bit with a lap joint and make it easier to remove the top if it ever needed to be replaced. I wasn’t a big fan of the shelf on his as it prevented items from being placed between the legs of the sawhorses when folded. These are based on a design by Steve Ramsey, but with a few additional changes. But after a little research and some sketching, I decided that I could build a homemade pair for less using five 2x4s and a four strap hinges. There are several options to look at if you’re interested in buying folding sawhorses. But with an upcoming workbench project planned, it was finally time to give in and buy or build a pair. For some reason, I’ve never owned a pair of sawhorses even though I’m sure they would have made several projects much easier. ![]()
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